Lot 16: Antique Peridot, Diamond, Pearl, Enamel, Silver and Gold Brooch

In the realm of jewellery, an item is classified as Antique if it was crafted at least 100 years ago; some periods and styles are usefully and creatively divided into descriptive subcategories dramatically showcasing the advent of changing materials and design aesthetics. Interestingly, as the years pass, Art Deco items, including those with a circa date of 1920, will be gradually moving into Antique terminology territory related to age but will always be referenced as Art Deco in terms of their notable and distinctive design.

Past eras encompass Georgian, Renaissance Revival, the various Archeological Revivals covering Etruscan and Egyptian motifs, to turn-of-the-century Victorian, Belle Époque or Edwardian.
Revival designs are evocative of and inspired by the monumental historic excavations of the Ancient world like the opening of the tombs of Egypt, the spectacular hoards found in Roman ruins, the paintings of the de Medici family by Michelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci.

Notice the attention to detail displayed by the wardrobe department responsible for a “costume” drama and you’ll see how beautifully jewels of the era, whether faux or real, portray another time, place, class hierarchy, and often an abundant, over-the-top lifestyle.

Common elements can include natural pearls, untreated coloured gemstones, table-cut and rose-cut diamonds in closed-back settings of silver and yellow gold, cabochon-cut gems such as garnet, agate and turquoise, all contributing to a piece of superb craftsmanship.

Themes and motifs include sentimental mourning jewels, cameos, snakes, celestial and botanical motifs, double-chains, pendeloque chandelier drops, enamel and fine pampilles and canetille work, and not to be overlooked, secret compartments, too. For those in the know, there just might be either a covert or an overt meaning to decipher. Matching suites, called parures or demi-parures, were popular choices for ladies of a certain social standing, And a matching tiara fits nicely in a fitted box.

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